The air in Trivandrum was thick with mist as I throttled the new BMW F 800 GS up the winding roads of Ponmudi Hills. The lush greenery around me flickered past as the twin-cylinder beast purred beneath me like a well-fed jungle cat, calm yet alert. This wasn’t just another scenic ride. This was a full-blown character study of BMW Motorrad’s freshly reworked middleweight enduro. The F 750 GS has grown up , and grown muscle , to become the F 800 GS, and I was here to test whether it truly delivers on BMW’s promise of greater power and broader capability. The switchbacks of southern Kerala would be our proving ground , 60 kilometers of unpredictable mountain tarmac, off-camber corners, rolling elevation changes, and the occasional loose gravel segment. What better terrain to test a machine that’s meant to traverse continents?
A Small Sideshow Called BMW F 800 GS
Let’s be honest: in BMW’s 2024 press buzz, the spotlight beamed brightly on the all-new F 900 GS. Understandably so. But tucked quietly under that big announcement was the upgraded F 800 GS , an upgrade that, in many ways, deserved just as much attention. This “smaller” GS shares much of the engine heart with the 900: a new 895 cc twin-cylinder that punches out 87 hp and 91 Nm of torque. That’s a notable leap from the outgoing F 750 GS, which offered 72 hp and felt underwhelming on aggressive climbs. The F 800 GS, however, doesn’t just aim to keep up , it fights back. Its fairing is subtly tweaked for better airflow. The cockpit is modernized. The electronics have been beefed up. It’s not a complete overhaul, but a clever evolution. BMW isn’t shouting about it , but they really should be.
Comfortable and Dignified or Demanding and Aggressive?
From the moment I took off through the foothills of Trivandrum, the F 800 GS felt balanced. There’s a civility in its low-speed demeanor that’s almost deceptive. Crawling through village roads or rolling gently along the hill’s edge, it felt like a well-mannered tourer. Soft throttle response, light clutch pull, upright seating. Dignified? Definitely. But then, somewhere above Vithura, I twisted that throttle wide open exiting a corner. Boom. The character changed. At around 4,000 rpm, this bike transforms from a docile companion into a surging athlete. The torque kicks in and carries through, eagerly climbing toward 8,000 rpm. It’s intoxicating. Not frantic or wild like a supersport. More like a skilled brawler that knows exactly when to throw the punch. And despite this split personality, it never felt conflicted. Whether I was gliding gently along tea plantations or gunning it up a sharp incline with rocks and roots thrown into the mix, the F 800 GS stayed composed. It lives up to BMW’s claim , it really does master the full spectrum: calm to aggressive, cruise to chase.
Keyless System and Endurance Chain at Extra Cost
My test bike came fitted with all the bells and whistles , the Dynamic, Comfort, and Touring packages stacked in. This meant I had keyless ignition and fuel cap, cruise control (a blessing on the longer highway stretches), heated grips (which surprisingly helped during an early morning start), and BMW’s new “Endurance” chain. Let’s talk about that chain. Unlike the usual maintenance-heavy steel options, the endurance chain feels almost magical , smooth, quiet, and apparently self-lubricating. On the ride, I didn’t think about it once. And that’s probably the best compliment you can give a drivetrain component. The electronic rider aids are integrated seamlessly via the familiar BMW multi-controller. The Rain and Road modes are standard, but the optional Dynamic mode is where things get spicy , sharper throttle, firmer rear damping, quicker response. It’s worth the extra coin. Still, with all packages added, the price nudges up past €12,800. It’s not cheap anymore. But then again, refinement rarely is.
Ergonomics
I’m 5’11″ with a 32-inch inseam, and the 815 mm seat height fit like a glove. The standing position , critical for off-road stretches , felt natural. The pegs are right where they should be. The handlebars are wide, with just enough sweep. The seat, while not plush, offers good support for hours in the saddle. The TFT screen deserves its own paragraph. Crisp, bright, and completely legible even in direct sunlight bouncing off the Ponmudi cliffs. It packs all the expected goodies: Bluetooth connectivity, nav prompts, riding mode display, gear indicator, fuel range , the works. It’s well laid-out, too. Switchgear feel is classic BMW , solid, tactile, and made to last. The levers are adjustable, and the rear brake pedal position worked flawlessly whether I was seated or standing. Honestly, ergonomically, BMW nailed it. I didn’t even get sore until after 150+ kilometers, and that was more about Kerala heat than rider triangle.
This Is How the BMW F 800 GS Drives – More Substance Than Appearance
The F 800 GS rides like a proper mid-weight ADV. It’s not too light to feel nervous at speed, nor too heavy to toss around. The steering is responsive but never twitchy. The front fork , a conventional 41 mm unit , compresses more than I expected under hard braking, but rebounds predictably. The ZF rear shock, adjustable for rebound, handled loaded weight and corner exits without drama. I attacked hairpins with confidence, leaned into long sweepers without chassis wiggle, and rode over broken tarmac with surprising comfort. The bike doesn’t pretend to be flashy. It’s not trying to impress your Sunday ride crew with aggressive plastics or a booming exhaust note. But if you know what you’re looking for , composure, versatility, and mature performance , the F 800 GS quietly delivers. Even at over 160 km/h, loaded with panniers, it never wobbled. No headshake. No drama. The aerodynamics, while understated, clearly work. The one thing I’d swap? That small windshield. It’s okay for city rides and short runs, but high-speed touring demands the taller touring screen.
Conclusion
The BMW F 800 GS doesn’t scream for attention. It doesn’t need to. Because the moment you climb on, thumb the starter, and roll into your first corner, it speaks in a language seasoned riders will recognize: capability, refinement, and trust. Trivandrum’s mountains didn’t make it easy. The roads twisted, dipped, and crumbled. But the F 800 GS never once faltered. It’s the kind of bike that doesn’t need to be babied, yet won’t bite if you ease off and take in the scenery. Yes, it’s not cheap , not anymore. But for the price, you get a truly versatile machine. A tourer for the highways, a climber for the hills, and a calm companion for the long haul. BMW’s smallest GS is no longer the entry-level compromise. It’s the quiet overachiever. And after this ride through Kerala’s rising green, I’m convinced , this bike is more substance than appearance. And in today’s flashy world, that’s worth more than gold.
